by Marion Smith
Tbilisi, the enchanting capital of Georgia, is a city where ancient history, warm hospitality, and a modern creative pulse blend seamlessly. Nestled along the banks of the Mtkvari River and framed by rolling hills, it’s a destination that invites exploration at every turn, from cobbled streets and sulphur baths to futuristic architecture and vibrant food culture. Even better news for South African travelers: you can visit visa-free for up to one year, making Georgia an ideal getaway for extended travel or a short cultural escape.
The Enchanting Old Town
The best way to discover Tbilisi’s Old Town is on foot, and a walking tour brings the city’s many layers to life. My guide, Guran Alaphishvili, has been in the tour industry for close on 20 years, and his knowledge and passion for Georgian history and culture made the experience unforgettable. As we wound our way through narrow alleys and leafy courtyards, Guran shared stories of kings, poets, and traders who once called these streets home.
Each quarter of the Old Town offers a distinct atmosphere. The Jewish, Armenian, and German districts reflect centuries of multicultural coexistence, with synagogues, churches, and traditional homes standing side by side. Walking the cobbled streets feels like stepping through a living museum, where history isn’t confined to monuments but breathes through the architecture and local life.
Don’t miss the restaurant Kneina with its unearthed old bread oven and other historic discoveries, a humble but historic spot. This neighborhood, known as the area of bakeries, still uses ancient clay ovens fired by wood, preserving a culinary tradition passed down through generations. The rhythmic hum of bakers at work and the warm smell of freshly baked puri bread offers an authentic glimpse into daily Georgian life.
Hidden Corners and Photographic Charm
Tbilisi rewards the curious traveler. One personal favorite pastime is photographing the old doorways, their faded paint, intricate carvings, and wrought-iron details tell silent stories of time and character. Push one open, and you’ll often find a quiet inner courtyard, with climbing vines, tiled balconies, and the soft murmur of a city in motion just beyond.
Another hidden treasure lies within Soviet-era apartment entrances, where vibrant murals and mosaics from the mid-20th century are being uncovered and restored. These colorful works, once neglected, now offer an artistic window into Georgia’s Soviet past, from cosmic imagery to scenes of everyday workers and dreamlike patterns.
Modern Icons and Sweeping Views
Cross from the Old Town to the modern side via the Bridge of Peace, a stunning glass-and-steel structure that arcs gracefully across the Mtkvari River. By night, its illuminated curves reflect beautifully on the water, creating one of the most photographed sights in the city.
For an even grander perspective, make your way to the Chronicles of Georgia, a monumental set of stone columns overlooking Tbilisi Sea. Each towering pillar is intricately carved with biblical scenes and moments from Georgian history, an awe-inspiring fusion of sculpture, architecture, and storytelling.
Another unmissable landmark is the Holy Trinity Cathedral (Sameba), its golden dome visible from nearly every corner of the city. As one of the largest Orthodox cathedrals in the world, it’s both a spiritual beacon and a symbol of modern Georgian identity.
Sulphur Baths, Cuisine, and Culture
A visit to the domed sulphur baths in the Abanotubani district is a must. These natural hot springs have soothed locals and travelers alike for centuries, even the poet Alexander Pushkin once bathed here. Step inside for a rejuvenating soak or traditional scrub beneath the rounded brick domes that define the skyline of the Old City.
After your spa session, indulge in the heart of Georgian hospitality with dinner at Ethnograph Restaurant. Here, traditional performances of folk dance and hauntingly beautiful polyphonic singing accompany an exquisite Georgian feast. Pair a glass of rich Saperavi wine with khachapuri, the country’s famous cheese-filled bread, and you’ll understand why Georgian cuisine is beloved worldwide.
Don’t forget to try wine-flavoured ice cream when out wondering on the streets, a whimsical treat that celebrates Georgia’s ancient winemaking heritage in a modern twist.
Creative Revival and Urban Cool
For a taste of contemporary Tbilisi, head to Stamba, a former Soviet publishing house now transformed into a stylish hotel and cultural hub. Its design raw concrete, vintage printing presses, and lush greenery, embodies the city’s talent for reinventing its past. Inside, you’ll find creative studios, a coffee roastery, and one of the most photogenic lobbies in Europe.
Plan Your Georgian Getaway
Tbilisi is a city of contrasts, ancient and modern, grand and intimate, traditional yet forward-looking. Whether you’re wandering the cobbled streets with a seasoned guide like Guran Alaphishvili, soaking in the sulphur baths, or savoring a warm piece of khachapuri straight from the oven, you’ll find that every experience connects you to the soul of Georgia.
With visa-free entry for South African passport holders for up to one year, there’s no reason not to start planning your journey. Come for the history and architecture, stay for the warmth, flavors, and stories and leave with memories as rich and layered as Tbilisi itself.
